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How To Protect Your RV Batteries In Storage?

If you store your RV for an extended time, don't forget to maintain and care for its batteries.

We have decided to park our reader questions this month as we have observed a recent rising trend across forum groups, social media, and our BMPRO customer feedback identifying one obvious fact and one not so obvious fact, with the latter being a disappointing shock and loss to many of our Aussie adventurers. The first fact confronting many is that we are ‘back’ in terms of being able to travel across once-closed borders. Once the domain of squabbling states with premiers exerting their power in locking down states, these borders are now the rightful domain of thousands of Austraalians who have hitched up their camper, caravan, or thrown their swag on the roof to experience the freedom of exploring once again what I reckon is in so many ways the most blessed country in the world. 

The second fact is a more sobering one. Caravans and campers stored in their garages, sheds or front yards over the past 12 months or so have not had their batteries well maintained, hence an increase in cries for help and information due to batteries not charging. As what is often the second-most expensive consumable replacement item in a RV after tyres, it is critical to think about how these will be maintained during extended periods of storage. Not much can be done for maintaining tyres during these periods, but failing to adequately care about your battery will result in a costly start to your new adventure. For those who have not yet dusted off the cobwebs, we have a few critical tips to prevent unwanted expenditure and explain why these scenarios occur. 

Maintenance of batteries during storage months should involve keeping a watchful eye on the battery to check its condition — is it swelling or has the voltage dropped to a dangerously low level? Have the terminals corroded or is the charger still functioning as it should be? These simple visual checks can potentially identify whether there is imminent battery damage enabling corrective action. Secondly, checking there are no parasitic loads on the battery that may drain it down to an unrecoverable point and an isolation switch from the loads are always a good idea. Thirdly, it is important to let the voltage on the battery come down from a float position somewhere between every one to three months. This enables the chemical reaction inside to prevent sulphation on the battery plates. To do this turn the lights on for several hours and let the battery voltage be drawn back to around 12.0-12.2V. On a decent battery this should represent around 50% of its capacity.  

Note that if your battery is older and well used it will reach this figure faster — keep a good eye on the voltage and do not let it drop below 12.0V. A full recharge after this will help keep your battery in good condition.

The reasons that a battery may be ‘dead’ are varied and the circumstances will be independent to each battery and the environment.  It could be that the battery has not been ‘exercised’ and that the internal chemical reaction inside has caused the plates to collapse which changes the resistance and can cause the battery to overcharge. This is normally represented by a swelling in the external case as it tries to vent the gases created in this process. Another reason is that there is no compensation for environmental factors such as temperature.  Many chargers come with a temperature sensor that can be attached to the side of the battery to detect if the ambient or internal temperature is too high and adjusts the charging algorithm accordingly. 

Protect your investment in batteries — they are not cheap and simple actions can ensure your return to travelling is not an expensive one.  Safe travels!

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